CHANEL Aw16 Collection No. 1- Part I

For Fall 2016 CHANEL have certainly taken us all by surprise. I say this in a good way because being a true CHANEL-addicted at heart, and owning so many collections from two decades back, it’s kind of hard to impress me.

When you follow a brand for a long time, you get to know its core and the collections doesn’t vary all that much from Fall to Fall or Spring to Spring. CHANEL is different in the way that they always find some special twist to their pigments. A green will never be simply a green. The nail polishes always have the most intricate shades and so on. BUT: all eyeshadow quads have been quite shimmery. I know that the quality was upgraded some years ago but critics say that the eyeshadows can be hit or miss depending on your skin and quite frankly, your age. It is not flattering to look like a disco-bowl at fifty…

This year, everything is changed! By hiring Lucia Pica, well known artist and makeup-artist as the new Global Creative Designer for makeup and colour, the AW16 collection is her very first release for the house.

It is simply named Le Rouge Collection No.1 and Lucia wanted to start with something that she had a personal connection to and also something that is a pillar colour for CHANEL and so, a whole collection around the colour RED was born.

In numerous interviews we have seen Lucia reference Mademoiselle Chanel’s famous quote “put your red lipstick on and attack” as the shade for both of them stands for something very feminine and strong, almost bold and intense. Don’t be scared of this – if you are someone who would never consider wearing red lipstick – there are so much more to this collection than what first meets the eye.

First and foremost, Lucia wanted to show us that there are so many dimensions and variations of the colour red and that she also consider it to be vulnerable and cute, sexy and sensual. It doesn’t have to be only for the bold woman. There is something submissive to the shade as well.

As with all large CHANEL collections, it is huge and consists of eyeshadows, blush, eyeliners, cream shadows, a new mascara and a whole range of lipsticks to go with it all.

What is revolutionary with this collection is that for the first time ever, the house is releasing an all matte eyeshadow quad! No fine glitter for this time. I couldn’t be more thrilled! Obviously, this was my first pick from the collection. Let’s talk about the products one by one.

The idea or wearing red on your eyes might be intimidating, specially if you are not bart of the makeup-circus and just like to wear a simple but flattering eyeshadow. When I first saw the Les 4 Ombres #268 Candeur et Expérience I got very intrigued. The first thing you focus on is no doubt that warm, brick red shade. The centre of attention. Now, this is a fabulous quad as it allows you to either paint a bold funky eyelook or a very classic and paired down one, depending on how you use the shades.

I decided to go with something in the middle and as all shades are matte, you can’t use only the quad to create different textures. For that, you need to add the pencils and cream shadows..

But let’s say that you only pick up this quad. How to work it? After reading hundreds of comments on IG, reviews on professional sites as well as personal blogs, as well as talking to a number of MUAs that uses the quad, it stand clear to me that it might be more flattering to wear if you are having a tan, or have naturally warm skin tone – anything from golden to really dark skin. This is by no means me trying to discriminate pale skin!! I’ve just seen that the quad might go on a little bit too “rock chic” if you are having a pale complexion. As always with makeup, nothing is “correct” and everything can work.

The quad is all warm and as it actually sports three shades of earthy tones: a dark chocolate brown, a brown-red shade and a lighter camel color which reminds me of dulce de leche it is easy to do a full brown look and leave the brick red behind. I however LOVE the pop of colour it gives! I have used it as a base all over the mobile lid, I have tried it as a transition shade on the crease and I have also added it simply as an eyeliner on my lower lash-lane. Either way, it wears beautifully. As I have a medium dark skin tone, the shade turns up more warm brick-red but with a coral undertone to it. Very flattering. I prefer it the most as an eyeliner or as a base all over the lid, where the warm brown tones then get to be the drama. If i add it in the socket line and smudge it upwards, I don’t think I look elegant and fresh any more – it will look much more editorial and funky on me. A total miss match with my own personality haha.

The camel shade is amazing in the inner corner of the eye. I would say that this quad at first glance would be enigmatic on really blue eyes but I feel that it works well with my darker eyes as well. Some say that the shades wear off quick and goes patchy on them? As I have oily lids, I never experienced this but I needed to add a primer and/or a cream shadow as a base to make the pigments stand out as they are very close to my natural skin colour. To be honest, I never think that CHANELs quads are the best in the markets when it comes to longevity; if you need a strong makeup that holds for hours and hours you either need to mix them with another product or use a good setting spray. It is not an issue for me as I make my eyes look bold with mascara and like the rest of the makeup to be subtle and well blended.

Did I mention that this quad is a “must-have”?! It is. No words needed.

Next up, and a given for me, was to pick up the two new Illusion d’Ombres. Now, When CHANEL first launched these small pots of heaven, they where first on the market with a cream eyeshadow in a bouncy mousse texture. I have loved them ever since, for their texture, the pigments and mostly because they always comes in such exquisite shades! AW16 is no difference.

Don’t be scared! The Illusion d’Ombre #128 Rouge Brûlé looks crazy-orange in the pot, like it would be totally unwearable. But you see, this little gemstone is actually the product in the whole collection that I would recommend the most if you’ve got blue eyes and very pale complexion. You see, when you press it on to the lid and start to sheer it out, you’ll get the most delicate shade of warm deep apricot. Think of the pale red you’ll see as a splash on small winter apples in your garden. It is so incredibly elegant and sophisticated. I have worn it alone with just a thin eyeliner and mascara and it is stunning. I recommend everyone to take a look at CHANELs Facebook page where their wonderful MUA (with creamy complexion and strawberry blond hair) is working this delicate shade. It is just magical!

While the creamy orange shadow holds some of the small micro shimmers in it, like all other Id’O, the Illusion d’Ombre #132 Rouge Contraste is all matte! Not the first matte I’dO but certainly very longed for. Some say it goes “muddy” on them, again –  I think you need to have at least some tan to sport this one. Usually, I don’t like to blend together two Id’O as the texture is a bit special, but as these two are matte and shimmery, they build up a very nice look while being layered. I add the bright shade all over my lid and use the dark brown with a red-plum tone in the other V and all through the socket line. It works beautifully and creates a perfect look for Fall. I long to be back in Scandinavia, wear nice clothes and a Burberry coat, some high boots and walk through the fallen leaves in reds and yellows and brown while wearing this makeup. Fall in Dubai is great due to perfect temperature, but it will never be as luxurious as experience the season properly. This eyeshadow combination is supposed to be worn with the right attire and surroundings.

As the collection is so extensive, I will simply divide it into two articles. I’m scared that you’ll fall asleep if I don’t and I think it’s important to ephesise that just because a full collection is being launched, you don’t need to purchase the whole lot in order to enjoy it! Often enough, 2 pieces are enough, like something for the eyes and lips, as we have things in our own collections to pair new items with. It is important to shop smart and pick up those items that we know we either are going to use over and over again, or treat as a collectors item. Either way, enjoying a new launch is not about splurging on everything just because you see people on IG doing so. Choose wisely and love your products! ♥

  1. I don’t think this is the collection for me with my fair, cool skin. Still, the shadows all look absolutely stunning and so perfect for fall! Beautiful pics and wonderful review! xoxo

    1. Hi Jenn! Oh so fun to see you in here :). I hope you don’t take offence when I said the same, that the collection might be hard to work with if you’ve got very fair skin? I think you should have a look at the Tutorial on CHANELs Facebook page, showing the Illusion d’ombres. They might work very well for you! Kisses and thank you so much for always being so supportive. Love, M

  2. I like the orange cream shadow, because I love all things sparkly and intense. The eyeshadow quad would need to be mixed with another palette for my skin. All the 4 shadows would be great over a much lighter base on my eyes. Thanks for a lovely article!

    1. Dear friend! I love to see your comments, they make me smile every time! Yes, the great thing about this orange shade is that it’s easy to sheer it out to just a veil of coral, or wear intensified for a really cool edgy look! It’s the same with all Id’O and that’s what makes them so special. I think that I will add a back up quad for this palette as I will get so much use out of it. <3 Thank you for reading and loving, kisses sweetie. M

  3. Hi my dear M.
    I love your honest review and beautiful pictures. I appreciate your words and advices and felt in some moments that this is like a personal letter from you to me.

    I love red colour but I am one of the person I do not use to use it. However I love watching at beautiful things and the eyeshades quad is really beautiful.

    I will take a look to Chanel Tutorial and check for sure Illusion d´hombres.

    PD: It´s imposible to get asleep with your wonderful words.

    Sending you a lot of love,

    1. My wonderful Mar, These words, they really mean everything to me. That you always take the time to read, to comment and learn. It is not something I take for granted and it touches me. I try to write so it shall feel personal and engaging, because that is just the way I am as a person as well. Passionated and very happy when I find items I really really like! If I find the link to said tutorial I will DM it to you on IG. kisses, M

  4. Youve described the items beautifully! I agree the palette and Rouge Brule are the stars in this collection, they’re just so unique to Chanel! Oh and it never occurred to me that rouge brule sheers out to an apricot! I’m curious now!!

    1. Hi Linda! YOU are amazing! I think that your way of describing the collection and the looks you created was so stunning, I will for sure refer my readers over to you if they need a closer look! I didn’t think of the IdO as apricot either until I saw the tutorial on CHANEL on FB and fell in love with that way of applying it. Have a look!! Kisses, M

  5. I’ve been debating for so long to get the quad and I always buy things such as makeup I know I can use on daily basis. I can see myself using the quad since it’s all matte. It has so many mix reviews online and on instagram but you definitely encourage me on getting this one after reading your blog.

    1. Well to be perfectly honest, I think it depends on your skin tone and the way you know how to work a quad! We get so many options on how to apply makeup, where to, how to blend, layer etc. With that comes equal amount of possibilities to fail 🙂 I think you should test-drive it at the counter, let the MUA do two different looks and see if you like it or not. On my skin it works amazing so I love it, but I’m not sure I would use it on my mother! Kisses sweetie

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