Finally, we’re back where it all started: the eyes! The whole purpose of telling you “my story” was to bring some clarity into and focus on the sensitive skin around our eyes and everywhere where your glasses or sunglasses touches the skin. This is part IV in my mini-series and as we have gone through cleansing and exfoliating, antioxidants and mists with hydration, today I thought we could focus exclusively on the fragile and thin skin right around the eyes! How do I treat the area to make sure that my skin remains firm and elastic at the same time? Do I try to prevent any discoloration or dark circles from emerging and how about taking care of puffy eyes? What about fine lines and crows feet, are they even a problem to address at the age of 34 and do we really need SPF all over our eyes if we are using sunglasses? Lots of interesting questions to dig into! I’m not an expert, this is my personal journey and what I’ve come to learn so far about eye care.
Let me start with the treatment: Dermalogica Reversal Eye Complex, part of the AGESmart® series. When I first did my FaceMapping for this particular campaign, I told my therapist Cormei that I wanted to focusing on my eyes. I had recently seen a number of posts on social media debating whether it’s important or not to use products specially design for the eyes. I don’t judge. Each one to their own! Up until I became 30, I had not own an eye cream, I didn’t know what an eye serum was and I had never heard of products that worked as treatment for the area in specific. I can’t say that I was well informed!
Now, at 34 the status of my eye area is this: I don’t have dark circles or discoloration and I’m blessed not to have fine lines or crows feet (yet!). I do suffer from puffiness and sometimes, as the area is also dehydrated, when I add the wrong type of hydration; it only emphasizes the puffiness. It is a no-win game. The skin on my eyelids is super thin; it makes it challenging to apply eyeliner or even makeup sometime, as I don’t need to barely touch the surface and it looks like I’m pulling and dragging my skin in all kinds of directions. My eyelids feels older than the rest of my face. On top of this, my eyes are very sensitive. I use the wrong product and it starts to itch. I wear contacts and my eyes will get red and tear up. I easily get milia even on the inner lashline (extremely hurtful) and I’m always scared to apply products on this area just because of my sensitivity. For me personally: using any other lotion or potion just to save some money is simply not an option. I have to look into specific products design for the eye area that are not filled with artificial fragrance or colouration.
The reversal eye complex is a great way for me to treat my skin without making it more sensitive. This is a complex designed to use at nighttime: at first you should only apply it every other night and then gradually build it up to a part of your daily night routine. Prominent for the treatment is that it contains 0.1% Retinol. Now, when this reacts with the skin, it turns into Retinoid (Vitamin A) which in larger concentration has to be prescribed by a Dermatologist. As is, Retinol is the most popular and at the same time debated ingredient in the skincare community as it assists with cell turnover and basically speeds up the process of you loosing the top layer of your skin in order for fresh and strong skin to emerge. Retinol has the capability to smooth away signs of skin ageing and it is well needed even in the eye area. Dermalogica have developed a special micro-encapsulated form of retinol which optimizes the ingredient’s potency and absorption without the need for a higher concentration. That’s why I’m able to use it! Yes, it thinness out the skin and as such, I’m wary on how it affects my eyelids, but as the retinol is mixed in with a fabulous cocktail of eight other different active ingredients ( Oligopeptide,Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide and Licorice root extract just to name a few) it treats the area in a gentle but effective way. As someone without fine lines, I can’t vouch for how much it will reduce the appearance but I do know (after testing the product on a friend) that the look of dark circles is diminished. The treatment also contains Caffeine, wish certainly helps my eyelids to tighten up and regain some kind of elasticity. A much needed and welcomed result.
Whenever you use retinol on your skin, it is crucial to apply SPF during daytime to protect the new and fragile skin layer. It can’t be exposed to damaging UV-rays but to be fair: neither can any other part of your skin – at least not for a long period of time. Yes, a little bit of Vitamin D from the sun is needed, we shouldn’t completely hide from the sun, but you all understand what I mean?
UV-rays causes the highest amount of pre-ageing damage to the skin, it makes the skin age faster and loose its collagen and elastin level. Fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation as scars will appear much more prominent and not to mention blocking out the UV-rays might be important to prevent skin cancer from developing. I still to this day can’t understand why skipping SPF (and I’m not talking about that white sticky thing people are using at the beach, but quality products with broad spectrum in them) is a choice for people? I hear all these excuses like: “it’s cloudy where we live, no sun to protect us from”, or “I always wear sunglasses so my eye area is completely covered”. It doesn’t work that way. Simple as that!
I always, and I mean always wear SPF when I head outside. In one form or another. It can be a cream, a booster drop (Dermalogica carries them) or simply added to my makeup in terms of a high SPF foundation. This, or all of the above. It is important to understand that if you use a cream with SPF30 and a foundation with SPF20, you’re not walking around with a coverage of SPF50 :). Just to make that clear.
Now, I have to use sun protection. My hyperpigmentation and small acne scarring won’t allow me any other but for my eyes I’ve found it even more important – especially if using treatments with retinol in them!
Usually, I prefer to apply both an eye serum and an eye cream as my skin needs all the assistance it can get. Truth to be told, I was a bit disappointed to find that Dermalogica couldn’t offer me that duo-solution. They do carry an eye serum in the range but it is not designed for my skin condition.
I did however get recommended to try out their Total eye care SPF15 Broad spectrum and I was eager to give it a try. The tube is small, I was scared that I would run out of it in a second but I found that a very small amount actually covers my whole eye area. Some enjoy their eye creams to come in a jar or a bump-bottle. I personally understand the hygienic aspect of this tube design, but I won’t lie: i’t doesn’t give me that luxurious feeling.
The ingredient list on the other hand does! This cream is a slightly tinted advanced Alpha Hydroxy treatment. As such, it holds Lactic Acid (AHA) and chemical-free SPF Titanium Dioxide to prevent any further UV-damage. With its Spiraea Extract it is said to reduce puffiness and lines by firming and tightening the skin. I’m not sure that I believe in the whole “tightening” aspect of any product or brand, but I absolutely feel that my flimsy thin eyelids feels more dense and together, like they’re stronger now. It might be from the simple fact that the cream contains Sodium PCA which is good at attracting water and hydration to the cell. maybe it won’t make me puffy but actually just makes the skin appear “thicker”? Either way, it works for me.
I love the fact that the Total eye care contains Bisabolol wich is highly anti-inflammatory and therefore a very good shield to my sensitive skin. It is completley free from any artificial fragrance, parabens or color so the tinted effect is completley natural and made up by Optical light defusers to make the area look brighter and conceal small veins. As I’ve got somewhat darker skin and the product is very “western-skin toned” it actually works in my favours as it looks like a brighter but clear concealer on me! I enjoy this eye cream a lot, it makes my eyes look awake and it protects my skin. I would have loved it to contain a higher SPF, maybe even 30, but I feel that SPF15 is way better than nothing – even if I’m wearing sunglasses.
I hope my mini-series of MyFaceMy Story has been informative to you in your quest of navigating the extensive Dermalogica range in particular, but active ingredients and skin care routine in general. It is important to know that everyone should feel confident in choosing products and brands that suits their personal need and budget. Dermalogica is high-end both when it comes to science, treatments and price point and I’m well aware of that. The important thing is that you take care of your skin – the largest organ of the body – in the same way you would do with your heart or liver. Be gentle with your skin and make sure to figure out your own personal needs before purchasing any product out there. Dermalogica always offer their free FaceMapping consultation to assist you with understanding your skin’s strength and weaknesses. I recommend you to try it out! ♥