Playing with light: NEW Dermalogica TRx

First thing first: let me address the topic about skincare (in general) with lightening or brightening effects. I’ve come to understand that, at least back in the upper part of Europe and Scandinavia where I come from, it wasn’t long ago that you couldn’t even find these series on the market. Wether that matched the populations fair skin tone (the larger number at least) or had something to do with ingredients regulation, I have no idea. All I can refer to is my own experience of growing up as a Scandinavian, but with a darker skin tone. I’m prone to hyperpigmentation, have always been and I remember as a young teen I thought my skin was dirty due to the uneven colour. It wasn’t fun.

My personal opinion is that these ranges fill a gap at the market and I don’t see them as pushing for lighter skin, that somehow darker skin is not beautiful. I’ve never even thought about it in a creepy Michael Jackson kind of way! However, I do know that many of the best whitening systems originate from an asian skincare culture, where it’s desirable to have more “western-looking” skin and I’m in no way (obviously) getting behind that message!

Whit this being said; let’s start playing.

It took a couple of years for Jane Wurwand and her team of scientists to perfect what would become Dermalogica’s new brightening system. The old series needed to be updated as less abrasive and more active ingredients had entered the market. During 2015 the new PowerBright TRx™ system hit the shelves and, as with all things that replaces something other, some customers missed their old favourites and new customers found their way to better skin.  I was not a new customer of Dermalogica, but had never tried the old system before, so I can’t compare them.

The new system features only three products, very handy and easy to understand: it centres around the C-12 Pure Bright Serum which you should apply twice a day and then add the other two products on top, depending on if it’s your morning- or nighttime regimen. Simple as that!

C-12 Pure Bright Serum is a lightweight easy absorbed fluid that is best used in a targeted manner: apply it only where needed and let the area set for 5 minutes before adding the next product in the range.

Said to combat hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone at its source, highly active Oligopeptides -34 and -51 assist in regulate the body’s melanin production. Add rice-derived Phytic Acid, Zinc Glycinate together with both red and brown Algae to balance uneven skin tone and you might get a better understanding on how this product work. All three items in the series have kind of the same active ingredients but in different setup and strength. The whole series comes without artificial fragrances, colours and no parabens, although one should know that Dermalogica is not indifferent to parabens and I support that message. Personally, I’m not all that troubled with these and often when it stated “no parabens” the product might still hold some kind of preservative. We don’t want our expensive skincare to go bad…

Back to the serum. I’ve been given the chance to test this series out and I’m 2 weeks into the process. We all know that cell turnover equals 28 days and so it’s naturally to soon to tell if these products are really doing everything they are promising.

I decided to use them on a discolouration on my nose, on my chin and believe it or not, on my upper arms where I suffer from KP and get a lot of hyperpigmentation. I’ve also read about customers who use the products on their hands, as discolouration makes your hands look older. Smart move!

Only two weeks in though, I can tell you that the spots on my chin are gone. Totally disappeared! Therefore I feel entitled to start reviewing. I’m very happy with this serum, it sinks in so beautifully, doesn’t add any scent to the skin or leave any residue. My skin is naturally dull and dehydrated but I can see a change in this as well.

For the morning regimen, it’s advocated to apply Pure Light SPF50 on top of our serum. This cream is what we all need: a highly concentrated sunscreen but with skincare benefits to sit nicely under makeup and treat our skin.

It holds so called Oleosome technology which basically is a use of natural plant spheres filled with ingredients to enhance the SPF performance, without the need to add as high amount of chemical sunscreen into the product. This I truly support! Since moving to Dubai, I rarely go out without lower than SPF 30, but as we all know, there is a fine balance as we also need Vitamin D to survive. In this part of the world, with such sunny climate, population suffers a lot from Vitamin D shortage! Balance is key.

The day cream only holds Oligopeptide -34, but layered with the serum you’ll still get sufficient amount of peptides. Algae comes with it and it also contains Hyaluronic Acid for moist and skin plumping effects as well as both Eucalyptus leaf and Lavender oils. With some pumpkin fruit ferment filtrate, this gives us both a topical exfoliation, UV protection, moisture and targeted treatment. It should be the perfect cream. I need to tell you though, that for me, I still need additional hydration! Yes, a bit odd maybe, but the serum and this day cream is not enough for me and I certainly need to use a great primer on top.

The Pure Night cream for my nighttime regimen on the other hand, I enjoy a lot! It’s rich and very nourishing to my skin. For some reason, my upper arms have been in such great condition after a full night’s sleep; my KP barely visible. No redness or itchiness. I have been wearing sleeveless tops which I rarely do! This product controls melanin production using the same Oligopeptides but in the formula it’s added Vitamin C. I do know that there are people who can’t tolerate it, so please do a patch test with all skin care items whenever you feel insecure! For me, Vitamin C is a must to ever have a chance of an even skin tone. I use it topically and of course eat and drink it daily. More often, I tend to add my Vitamin C into my daytime routine, so this is a first for me but I’m really liking the look and feel of my skin in the morning. I can absolutely recommend it!

I think the range and the technology and philosophy behind it is very appealing. I’m a huge lover of Dermalogica but as the range is so extensive I think it’s good to go and see one of their specialists for a face mapping before splurging out. That’s what I have been doing at least every 7 months as I want to have the chance to follow my skin’s progress. Maybe not necessary but it’s fun to have an idea! ♥


Thanks to Dermalogica UAE for letting me try the series. 
    1. Hi Dear Molly! Thank you for your kind comment and for reading. I enjoyed the serum very much and could see improvements quite early on in the process. Huge hug from Dubai. xx M

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