That Luxurious Feeling: The Skincare Routine(s)

Ok. So this is the post that wasn’t suppose to happen. I’d promised myself when I launched this platform that I would give it a year before writing about my personal skincare routine(s).

Why?

Simply because it is a learning curve when you are passionate about something. What you know today can and will change as you get to know new people, see new research and try and test your way forward. My skin has changed a lot since I moved from Scandinavian climate and landed in the most heated, sunny, humid and polluted environment I’m most likely to ever live in.

“ The goal isn’t ‘perfect’ skin. The goal is optimum skin health & condition & being our most strong, fit, healthiest, best self. At any age.” – Jane Wurwand, Founder of Dermalogica

Also, a skincare routine is very personal and to me even private. Your complexion is visible for everyone to see, and when you play around with it, some people automatically believes that you must have perfect skin and sit on all the top secrets. For me, that’s not the case. I’ve learn to live with the fact that my skin will never be clear and perfect. Due to reasons beyond my control like hormonal imbalance and medications there’s only so much I can do. Visiting a counter or putting my routine out here is equally as scary. You who read this, or the sales person that greets me can only see a fraction of what’s going on.

To me, skincare is about luxury and fun! The time I spend with my products, with people who like the same things as I do, with reading up on ingredients or walking around in the mall is all about that luxurious feeling. I love pretty packaging but at the end of the day I prefer a pretty content. I think that luxury doesn’t automatically come with a brand, most brand I use have both amazing and not so impressive items in their line. It is natural to me. To be able to have fun (if you are going to invest this kind of money and time you might as well do) it needs to come with acceptance. I’m 33 and think I’ve got time to make mistakes. With this occupation comes a lot of testing and sometimes it goes wrong. I don’t panic about it. I’m not scared of a bump or wrinkle. It is what is is!

Now, people have urged me to write this post and it will be a novel. I do apologise. There are so much to say about this fascinating topic and I have found myself not posting so many skincare article based on the fact that one serum here and there will not make sense if you are new to this field. Where does it come in? Why do you need a routine, or do you really need a routine?!

This will be my base. I will most likely be in need of updates as I develope and my knowledge increase. But for know, I’ll try and walk you through my interpretation of a skincare routine and my preferences for products. If you need to refresh your memory on my skin type or skin condition, please read here.

First of all, NO. I don’t believe you need to have a proper routine. My husband has great skin and he has done everything wrong for years and years. Being a sailor without SPF anybody!

Secondly, if your skin is working against you I think it is beneficial to act on it. You’ve only got one skin and I think it’s great to take care of it the way you do with the rest of your body. I do not see it as shallow or superficial, but caring and protective.

I’ve got no opinion whatsoever if you like to have a three-product routine (cleanse-tone-moisturise) or a fourteen step one. I do admit mine to be extensive in the evenings and on my weekends, but my morning routine is fairly easy. I never claim to be an expert and I never say that oh come on, it doesn’t take time! Yes, it do. Pampering, cleaning, protecting. Of course it takes time. And you have time if you engage. If it interests you.

I never cleanse with soap. And I don’t rinse with loads of water. I use cold-cloth and hot-cloth methods as well as sponge cloths by Sensai or Dermalogica. Water messes up the pH-level in your skin, and for the sensitive parts of my jawline and chin I react almost immediate.

I love oils. I can’t imagine my routine without them but I do my very best to avoid Mineral Oils. My time in boardrooms within the oil- and gas industry made me see too much. I don’t want it on my body. Even though some of my face have oily skin and is acne prone, oil is vital for it to regain balance and keep it clear. Likes for likes, the oil helps me out with my impurities. I enjoy and recommend jojoba oil and almond oil as well as rosehip oil and sunflower seed oil. Amongst many others!

I spend my money on serums. I want them to be both water-based and oil-based. High targeting and beautiful. I rather buy an expensive serum than a cleanser. I like to have vitamin C and E in my morning routines and have started to incorporate vitamin A during nighttime. I try my best to incorporate peptides, antioxidants and as much hyaluronic acid as possible into my daily routines. 

Pleasant  sensorial experience is key to me. I want my products to smell good and to do something for my mind and spirit. I avoid artificial fragrances if they come in cheap packaging. Basically, a high quality oil cost money to produce, hence the price tag of your product.

Citrus, aloe vera, ylang-ylang, chamomile, vanilla, rose. You name it and I’m in need of it. I can’t however do with lavender and menthol. I’m allergic to it both as fragrances and in food. Green Tea and cucumber are other favourites of mine.

Last but not least, before I try to draw up some routines you should know this. My collection is rather extensive, which means it sit’s on shelves and not in my bathroom. I can’t just grab things, and need to carefully decide what to bring to the sink or bathtub. Also, and I know some brands will not like this, I mix and match. Vigorously. I believe that the ingredients of a high end – great scientific product doesn’t need to be handhold by it’s mates. It will deliver great result even with other brands. As my face have so many different fields of “issues” to address, I choose products that I believe in. Not brands.

“Cleanse gently and in multiple steps. You never want to strip your skin! Squeeky skin is not ok. You are not a Rodent!” – Caroline Hirons, no presentation needed

Nighttime routine

  • I always double cleanse. Or, more likely I triple cleanse. First I take of my makeup and importantly my SPF with a micellar water. Always Bioderma Sensibio. I soak cotton pads and press them onto the skin for a good 10 seconds before wiping. I don’t like to pull at my eyelashes or delicate skin around my eye area. Then I go in with a balm or an oil. Or and oil that turns into a milk to really get all the makeup gone. I recommend SK-ii oil and balm from Elemis and Clinique. I wipe it off with a white cloth to be able to see how much residue there is. Third cleanse, if needed, will be with an enzyme powder like Tatcha or Diptyque. It emulsifies when in contact with water and works beautifully with my skin. Gel or foam cleansers are not my favourites.
  • Then I spritz with a low level of acid toner. I need both AHA’s (the lighter of them for resurfacing dehydrated and/or dry skin. It will boost the collagen production) and BHA’s (for a deeper penetration to clean out congested pores and minimize acne causing bacterias working from the inside and out) in my routine and have never experience any issues with glycolic acid as some do.
  • I stop the process with a cellular water spritz for hydration.
  • Twice a week I use a deep cleansing mask. Charcoal, clay, mud. I let it sit for 10 minutes minimum. On my nose where I have blackheads I use a purifying mask instead. I never use a mechanical scrub with grains on my face, but enjoy both salt and sugar scrubs on my body for circulation. I rely on my chemical exfoliator alternatives for face and decollete. I rinse it off with the hot cloth but keep it warm, not hot.
  • Twice a week I do some stronger acids. I prefer P50, Dr Dennis Gross or Peter Thomas Roth. I stay away from my under eye area. I stop the process with essence or rose-water spritz. SK-ii and The Organic Pharmacy have amazing alternatives. I’m new to Bravura London’s range and will report back.
  • Then comes the eyes. I try to use both an eye serum and then an eye cream. It all comes down to the principle of lightest product first, let it penetrate, then add the heavier alternative.  Caudalie, SkinCeuticals and Chanel have amazing eye range. The latter contains alcohol, but my eyes are not sensitive to this. I don’t suffer from lines, very dark circles or extensive puffiness. My eyes are quite fine.
  • Here follows the treatment. I treat skin conditions such as dehydration on my cheeks and forehead, hyperpigmentation on my chin and palms and acne on my jawline, and lower part of my face. I need to get my skin tone in more balance and the texture more smooth. Most of all, I need loads and loads of moisture. And I need it to deeply penetrate and stay there, not only as a topical application of a cream. I start with water based serums and I’m not scared to use 2-3 on different parts of my face, ears and neck. I let it sink in properly. Hylamide, Filorga, Institut Esthederm, Skin Inc and Lierac usually get my attention. Estee Lauder’s ARN has been a staple in my collection for years and years.
  • On top of the water based serum enters the oils! Serum in oil or just face oil. I’m quite heavy handed and sometimes I add a couple of drops of tonic just for the texture. Chantecaille, Sensai, Clarins and Kate Sommerville always sits in my collection. I let is really sink in. I prefer dry-oils at night, I don’t like a greasy face and pillow case. Thick overnight masks are not for me!
  • Finally I sometimes top it off with a night cream, mostly to lock the other products in. Some people want to apply the oil after the cream. This is the great part: you do what works best for you! Play around and see how your skin reacts. Enjoy both the journey and the destination!
  • I also but a body oil on and finish it all off with a hand cream. HandChemistry by 10Deciem or Elizabeth Arden 8-hour cream are by far the best ones, if you ask me. 

Then let’s do the morning routine, shall we? This one is the easier part. I’m half dead before 11am in the morning, so basically I need my products prepare my skin for the day and layer nicely so my makeup application goes on like a dream.

  • I cleanse once. To not cleanse my face would be the same as not brushing my teeth..Often I use a milk cleaner in the morning. No heavy duty! Dermalogica, Dr. Hauschka, Clarins and Sensai do great alternatives that I happily repurchase.
  • Twice a week I do a round of light chemical acids like Dermalogica or FAB pads.
  • Then I spritz with cellular water by Institut Esthederm.
  • I add some eye gel and need it to be cooling and hydrating. No7 and Ole Henriksen are my favourites.  
  • By now i’m half awake and in desperate need of hydration and vitamin C. I start with some serums, but want them water-based during the day, so Institut Esthederm, Kiehl’s and Origins are my absolute top pics. Great products in all their ranges. An antioxidant serum is much needed in our toxic environment living in a huge and busy city. If I’m just going to sit in front of the computer inside all day, I might add some rose hip oil as it contains ascorbic acid, a form of vitamin C.
  • I always top it up with a light texture gel-cream and prefer an oil-free version under makeup application. The Body Shop’s Vitamin C is just too good to miss out on! Le Jour de Chanel have been repurchased a couple of times now.
  • Then, finally, I always add some kind of sun protection. An SPF, or the Institut Esthederm range for sun exposure, or a primer base with higher SPF than 25. Even if I live in a super sunny place, I only wear high SPF at the beach or poolside, and never over SPF 30 for doing errands or driving my car. Often my foundations or CC-creams have some level of protection as well. I always make sure to add SPF to my ears and hands. Have missed out on that part once and learned the lesson!

Now. Do you feel like we are done yet!? I’m sorry to say this. We are not. Because here comes the last and probably best part of my routines: the Weekend pampering routine!

I try to take some extra time during days off to do facial massage, a good drainage massage and try to double or triple-mask! It’s for relaxation as well as pampering. I make sure to do a facial on my Husband as well. He needs a bit of winding down and that is a cosy way of taking care of him as well as a chance for me to practice and learn. I use SK-ii, Chantecaille masks and Ole Henriksen together with Chanel le Weekend and alternates with single products by Kiehl’s, Aesop and Cover FX for extra boost. As you see, I don’t have a specific brand that I prefer the most but find joy and pleasure in the search for new alternatives as much as using some of my long time favourites. Yes, it is a lot to take in and a number of steps to do, but it is a pleasure and I believe a fortune to have the means and opportunity to do so. It is a luxury and still it requires me to use my brain, to read and learn, to evaluate, try and test. I also have the great fortune to be able to do all this with total access to a couple of Dermatologists Specialists and Biochemical experts, which allows me to ask all the dumb and silly questions that comes to my mind. I don’t need to be the expert,  they are there to help me figure it all out. And the very best part of this passion of mine, is that it have connected me to so many amazing, like minded friends from all over the world. I speak with you guys from Australia, The US, Middle East, The UK, Asia and France on a daily basis about all these things and that is the true luxury here!

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